We have found that there are several types of para frames out on the market. It seems the older frames had a trigger guard which was pretty much identical to the standard 1911 as made by Colt and Springfield and many others.
However, more recent para's have a thinner trigger guard. The shape and contour is still the same, but it is actually narrower. Where a 1911 is about 3mm thick, the newer paras are about 2.5mm.
This half mm is enough to make the gun rock a lot in our holster, as there is no muzzle support. Not an ideal situation all around. We deal with lots of 1911 issues - there are so many models out there... STI makes several types of 1911 guns, and they themselves have 3 or 4 types of trigger guards!
Compounding the problem is the fact that due to the round profile of the 1911/para trigger guard, even with a very good fit in the holster, the gun can still rotate a little around the radios of the trigger guard itself. That is a problem as well. It kind of depends on what the expectations of the customer are, and what he is comparing to. Our holster will hold the 2011 frame much better. But if you compare our 1911 to other race holsters - ours is better.
Double-Alpha Academy B.V.
Race Master Insert Block Assembly
The Race Master Holster utilizes an efficient and easy system to allow shooters to switch their holster from one gun type to another by means of changing the Insert Block Assembly. This switch is fast and easy and can be done in under 2 minutes, and without loosing any of the holster's adjustments or settings.
The Insert Block Assembly includes:
1. The Locking Block (gun specific)
2. The Sliding Lock, assembled (gun specific)
3. The safety lever, assembled.
This assembly does not include the stainless steel tension adjustment screw, spring and plate, which you must transfer over from your Race Master holster and use with the 2nd Insert Block Assembly.
Inserts are currently available are the following gun types:
STI or SV Plastic
1911 Steel Frame
Insert Block Replacement Instructions
Make sure your Insert Block Assembly is suited to the gun type you are using (it is marked on the front face of the block). If it is not, the holster does not function properly.
To remove the Insert Block Assembly (4), first unscrew completely the Tension Adjustment Screw (14) and remove it from the holster. It extracts with the Tension Spring (19) on it. Then, using the supplied 2.5 mm key, remove the two Insert Assembly Screws (12). Now you can slide the Insert Block Assembly (4) forward and out of the Holster Body (5). It may be a tight fit, so some wiggling may be required.
When using a second insert, you will need to use your original Tension Adjustment Screw (14), Tension Spring (19), and Pressure Plate (18). Take care not to lose these small parts in the assembly process.
Position the Pressure Plate (18) as shown in the picture. This part is directional, so make sure that the round indent (dimple) is above the center hole and facing outwards. Hold the assembly horizontal (so the Pressure Plate does not slide out of position) and push the new Insert Block Assembly (4) into the Holster Body (5). Use the tip of a hex key to ensure the Pressure Plate (18) is aligned correctly so that the Tension Adjustment Screw (14) is inserted through its center hole, allowing the spring to press on top of it. Tighten the Tension Adjustment Screw (14) until it catches in the nut inserted on the opposite side of the Insert Block Assembly (4).
Replace and tighten the two Insert Assembly Screws (12) to lock the new insert into place. Using the External Activation Lever (13), slide the Insert Slide Lock (17) up and down a few times to ensure it is moving as it should. In the down position, you should be able to engage the Safety Lever (10).
The following video links provide additional information in customization of your holster, adjustments that may be needed to it, and block insert replacement.
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